DIY Stanchions

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These stanchions are based on ideas presented in an Instructables Tutorial by bobcjr and a
YouTube video uploaded by Ohio Haunt.

Both are worth reading/viewing in order to pick and choose the ideas that appeal to you.

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MATERIALS

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To make 6 STANCHIONS		To make 4 ROPES
2	1-1/2” X 10-foot PVC Pipes	4	6-foot lengths of 3/4" Tubular Pipe Insulation
6	2” X 3/16" eye bolts	1	yard of duct tape
12	2" X 5/8" screw eyes	1	12-oz can Valspar Primer Spray Paint (I used the entire can on the 4 ropes.)
6	finial toppers of your choice (I used 3" plastic balls because that's what I had on hand.)	1	12-oz can Valspar Red Spray Paint for Plastic (I used a little over half the can.)
6	1-1/2" PVC end caps	8	metal Snap Hooks.
6	1-1/2" PVC Couplers (outdoor stanchion only)	2	packages #10 X 1-3/8" Screw Eyes
1	12-oz can Valspar Spray Paint Metallic Gold,	8	wire twist ties
1	60-lbs. bag Quikrete (outdoor stanchion only)	1	1" X 48" poplar dowel (You'll only use about 16 inches.)
1	8-oz bottle Gorilla glue	28	feet of 3/4" nylon rope (optional)
6	9" Dollar Tree mixing bowls (outdoor stanchion only)
1	can cooking spray (outdoor stanchion only)
1	small can acetone
1	bottle white glue
18	sheets of paper towel torn into strips
1/2	sheet of 3/4" plywood or MDF (indoor stanchion only)

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THE POLES

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1. Cut the 10 foot PVC pipe into thirds (approx. 40 inches each) 2. Using a rag and acetone, clean all manufacturer and store markings from the pipe and end caps. 3. Put an end cap on each of the 40" poles to gauge where you will need to position the screw eyes. DON'T GLUE IT TO THE POLL.

4. Drill pilot holes on either side of each pipe. 5. Screw the screw eyes into the pilot holes. 6. Remove the caps and set aside.

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THE FINIALS

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1. Make a small slit in the plastic ball. Insert the head of the eye bolt into the slit and
turn the bolt until the "eye" is perpendicular to the slit.

Use a small piece of tape to keep the bolt in place while
your are gluing paper towels to the ball.

2. Cover the ball with paper towels soaked in white glue. Use half of a toilet paper roll as a base while the glue dries.

3. Apply two more coats, allowing each coat to dry throughly before adding the next layer. 4. Repeat with the other five balls.

5. Drill a 3/16" hole directly into the center top of each end cap. 6. Place a ring of Gorilla Glue around the bolt and insert it into the hole in the cap.

7. Using the nut that came with the eye bolt, tighten down the ball. 8. Repeat for the remaining 5 balls.

Note: The glue doesn't actually glue the ball to the PVC cap. It does, however, expand to fill some of the area between the ball and the cap, and helps to keep it from being wobbly.

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THE BASE

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ALL WEATHER BASE

INDOOR/SHELTERED BASE

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1. Use a Dremel or round rasp to remove the inside ridge of all six couplers. Remove all burrs.

2. Tape a coupler to the center bottom of each bowl so it will remain centered while adding the cement. One piece of tape is sufficient if you're careful.

3. Tape over the coupling opening to prevent cement from flowing inside.

4. Spray the inside of the bowl LIBERALLY with cooking spray. Don't worry if the spray gets on the coupling, but don't spray it directly. Fill the bowl with cement. Hold the coupling in place until it's completely surrounded with cement. Level the top.

5. Once the concrete sets, turn it out on a flat surface. If the bowl doesn't slide right off, LIGHTLY tap all around with a rubber mallet. Let it dry for 2 to 3 days, resisting the temptation to move or pick it up.

6. Clean the coupling hole of all debris. Spray the hole and the end of the PVC pipe with WD40. Use a rubber mallet to drive in the pipe.

7. Put on the finial, prime, and paint.

1. On 3/4 inch plywood, draw two circles for each stanchion. Mine are 15" and 11" in diameter, but I think those dimensions might be overkill.) Cut out the circles.

2. Drill a 1-1/2 inch hole in the center of each circle. Widen the center holes to accommodate the PVC pipe. I started widening the hole with a jigsaw and finished with a Dremel. You'll want the pole to be TIGHT. Sand the edges to remove splinters.

3. Stack the two plywood circles. Put a ring of Gorilla Glue around the bottom of the PVC pipe and push the pipe into the hole until it's flush with the bottom. Set it straight and plumb, and allow to dry overnight.

4. From the underside, put a couple of screws through the pole and into the wooden base to help keep the pole perpendicular to the floor.

5. Top off with the finials, give them a primer coat, and spray gold. TA-DA! Side note: I was concerned that the metallic spray wouldn't adhere to the PVC, although the clerk insisted it would. Although I could have purchased Primer for Plastics, I used some of my partially used cans of Spray Paint for Plastics as a primer coat prior to applying the gold. No need to worry about the color of the primer coat. Gold Metallic spray paint appears to cover just about anything.

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I came across this on Pinterest. Couldn't track down the original poster.
It's made from a plunger and a mop handle extension. I think it's pretty clever.

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THE ROPES

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To help give the foam insulation body and thickness, an eHow Tutorial suggests running 3/4-inch nylon rope through each foam piece, leaving enough at each end to tie a slip knot. Had I seen this idea earlier, I think I might have used it.



1. Prime and paint the four insulation tubes.



Note: Bending the foam tubes had no effect on the paint.
However, I found that the paint scratched off rather easily. Nothing dramatic, but you must be careful.
Although it's easy to touch up the scratches with a blast of red spray before each use, the scratching business bothers me.
I plan on sewing red fabric slipcover tubes for next year's party.

2. Cut eight 2" lengths of dowel. 3. Drill a pilot hole into one end of each piece. 4. Lightly sand the face and edges. 5. Screw an eye bolt into each dowel piece.

6. Insert the Dowel & Eyebolt Plugs into the ends of the foam tubing.

7. Make a slit in the center of a small strip of duct tape.

8. Place the tape over the end of the tube with the screw eye protruding through the slit.

9. Wrap a length of duct tape around the end of the foam tube.

10. Use the wire ties to attach the snap hooks.

Store the tubular insulation as shown on the right. This helps the tube maintain a U-shape, giving it a weighted look as it sags between the stanchions.

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